Timeless luxury on the Left Bank: A review of Hotel Lutetia, Paris
Editor's note: The Hotel Lutetia provided a media rate so that TPG could get an inside look at the hotel and its amenities. The opinions expressed below are entirely those of the author and weren't subject to review by the hotel or any external entity.
Hotel ratings run the gamut from stars to diamonds to roses. But when it comes to the best hotels in Paris, only one designation truly matters: the so-called "Palace" hotels. There are just 12 of these grande dames sprinkled throughout the French capital. Among them, a single one resides on the Left Bank: the Hotel Lutetia.
Hotel Lutetia was originally constructed in 1910 by the owners of the nearby Le Bon Marché department store as a lavish respite for their most important customers. The hotel also hosted luminaries like Pablo Picasso, Josephine Baker and James Joyce, who wrote part of "Ulysses" while staying here. These days, however, every guest is likely to feel like a VIP thanks to the luxurious appointments and impeccable French service.
A four-year multiyear renovation to the tune of over $200 million by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte (his firm also designed the Mandarin Oriental Paris) at the behest of the Set Collection hotel group has brightened up the hotel's decadent public spaces and unmistakable art nouveau facade, redolent with grapevines and trellises. Its distinctive electric marquee has been beckoning visitors from across the world back to its classy corridors since its reopening in 2018.
I used to walk by the Hotel Lutetia on my way to work when I lived in Paris back in the late 1990s, dreaming of the day when I might be able to stay there as a guest. I finally had that opportunity during a summer trip to Paris, and even got txo test out the hotel's benefits as part of the Capital One Premier Collection thanks to my Capital One Venture X Rewards Credit Card.
Even after two decades of anticipation, the hotel lived up to my lofty expectations, and then some. Here's what it was like staying at the Hotel Lutetia in Paris.
Getting there
Hotel Lutetia is located at the corner of Boulevard Raspail and rue de Sèvres in Paris's 6th arrondissement. It is just across the street from the Sèvres-Babylone metro station on the 10 and 12 lines as well as bus stops for several of the city's routes. The Saint Sulpice and Saint-German-des-Pres stations on the metro's 4 line are also not far.
If you're coming from Paris Charles de Gaulle, an Uber should take between 45-90 minutes and cost between 50-90 euros ($55-$99). You can also pay just 11.45 euros and take the RER B line to Chatelet Les Halles then switch to the 4 line of the metro and take it for six stops to Saint Sulpice then walk 5 minutes from there. The total journey time should be about 60-70 minutes.
The closest train station is Gare de Montparnasse, a 10-minute drive away, though getting to either Gare du Nord or Gare de l'Est should only take 20-25 minutes.
Booking details
Hotel Lutetia is part of the Set Collection, a group of about a dozen high-end hotels in Europe, Asia and Mexico. The hotel is part of GHA's Discovery program, but Hotel Lutetia does not participate in any of the other major hotel points programs.
The hotel is part of Capital One's Premier Collection, however. So if you have either the Capital One Venture X Rewards Credit Card or the Capital One Venture X Business, you can book your stay through Capital One Travel for value-added benefits like free daily breakfast for two, up to $100 in on-property experience credits and room upgrades (if available).
Hotel Lutetia is also part of Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts, so if you have The Platinum Card® from American Express or The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, you can make a booking through AmexTravel.com and receive perks like availability-based upgrades, up to a $100 credit to use on-property during your stay for things like drinks or meals, complimentary daily breakfast for two and guaranteed late checkout.
Rates at Hotel Lutetia start at 1,296 euros ($1,430) per night.
Standout features
- Contemporary, spacious rooms (even standards are 355 square feet) with iconic views, Carrara marble bathrooms and Parisian flourishes.
- Dining options abound, from one of the city's most sumptuous breakfast buffets to handcrafted cocktails at Bar Josephine.
- One of Paris's best hotel swimming pools is the perfect place for a pre- or post-treatment dip at the Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Spa.
Drawbacks
- Although its location in Saint Germain des Prés is central, some first-time Paris visitors might prefer a Right Bank hotel near the Champs Elysees or Louvre.
- The hotel doesn't participate in a major points program, so your redemption options are limited.
- The $100 on-property credit via the Capital One Premier Collection or Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts won't go far at Brasserie Lutetia, Bar Josephine or the spa.
The vibe
As you approach the Hotel Lutetia from the street — its rooftop sign's bright bulbs illuminated for all to see — the hotel's 123-year history is practically palpable. The building's undulating ashlar Art Nouveau facade teems with stylized vines and trellises.
Originally built as accommodations for nearby Le Bon Marché's well-heeled customers at the turn of the last century, the hotel has hosted luminaries such as James Joyce and Josephine Baker. In fact, its painstakingly remodeled ground-floor jazz bar is named after the famous chanteuse, and you can admire the ornate frescoes adorning its restored original ceiling and walls. No wonder Hotel Lutetia has garnered a coveted "Palace" designation by the French government — the only Left Bank hotel to hold that honor.
The current guest list is a mix of sophisticated international jetsetters in town for the latest fashion show, gallery opening or hostile takeover. Even the most frosty visitor will melt, however, in the warmth of the gracious staff's hospitality (you'll be greeted by name by everyone you see from the moment you arrive, which is somewhat intimidating, but mostly wonderful). Many stick around for a leisurely breakfast in the classic Brasserie Lutetia, where locals also come to puff pungent Gauloises cigarettes over a midmorning espresso on the patio, or take their meetings under the vibrant painted-glass ceiling of Le Saint-Germain lounge. So you never know whom you might run into.
The room
After its renovation, Hotel Lutetia now has just 137 rooms and 47 suites, including eight signature suites, some of which have expansive rooftop terraces with uninterrupted views of Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower.
I took up residence in a second-floor (third by U.S. standards) Junior Suite with Balcony that overlooked Boulevard Raspail. At nearly 540 square feet and with an open floor plan, it felt more like a very large hotel room rather than a suite.
After passing through the entry foyer with a closet to either side large enough to accommodate several steamer trunks of yore, a sharp right brought me into the combined bedroom and living area.
Something about it felt simply cinematic, whether it was the proscenium-style arch leading out through the French doors to my narrow balcony, the recessed ceiling reminiscent of the movie palaces from film's early days, or the standing lamps with circular Murano glass lenses, which resembled spotlights from a movie set.
The decor was subtle but sophisticated. Navy-blue wood paneling framing the bed and in one corner created distinct sections to the room without actually partitioning it. The marble-topped desk and leather armchair had a hidden panel for plugs and a tablet to control the lights, temperature and blinds.
The living room was bright but cozy with a gray-upholstered chaise lounge and a wooden table, which held a welcome amenity of Veuve Clicquot Champagne, fresh fruit, house-made cookies and a chocolate sculpture shaped like a traditional Parisian river ship — the hotel's symbol.
Along the wall next to the swiveling flat-screen Smart TV, the mirrored minibar held a full complement of glassware, including Champagne flutes and wine glasses with which to enjoy the red Bordeaux or white Chablis stocked as well as mugs for coffee from the in-room Nespresso machine. Among the other beverages on offer were various whiskeys and cognacs, Abatilles and Badoit sparkling water, Coca-Cola and Alain Milliat juices. As for treats, there were French specialties Les Cookies de La Mere Poulard apple-caramel biscuits from Normandy, Le Bonbon Français nougat from Provence and various fancy Comptoir du Cacao chocolate bars.
Back toward the entrance, the enormous Carrara marble bathroom seemed like it comprised half the square footage, with French doors and a balcony of its own letting in light, though also a unique circular overhead chandelier for when the blinds were closed for privacy.
Along one side were a water closet with a multifunction Geberit toilet and the two-sink vanity complete with a Dyson hairdryer.
Along the other were a dramatic sleigh-shaped soaking tub and a palatial walk-in shower with a low bench. Woodsy Palais Jamais Etro products were stocked throughout.
Over the course of my five-night stay, housekeeping kept the suite spotless with daily cleanings and turndown service, and the space worked equally well for relaxing and taking in the French street scenes below as for getting a good night's rest thanks to excellent soundproofing and keeping up with work with the fast, free Wi-Fi and those plentiful plugs.
Food and drink
Claiming pride of place right at the corner of Boulevard Raspail and rue de Sèvres on the hotel's ground floor, Brasserie Lutetia serves a mix of classic French dishes along with some interesting updates under the leadership of executive chef Patrick Charvet. The two-story space was usually bustling, and at night, the overhead decorations of fanciful miniature hot-air balloons gave it a whimsical ambience.
Among the dinner specialties were traditional French onion soup (21 euros, $23), Burgundy snails in parsley butter (19 euros, $21), sole meuniere with capers and fresh herbs (58 euros, $64) and classic blue lobster roasted whole with its juices and a side of crispy fries (64 euros, $70), which paired perfectly with a glass of the hotel's bespoke Champagne, Cuvée Lutetia from Taittinger (26 euros, $29).
A full American breakfast (58 euros, $64) with a buffet and a choice of hot entree plus unlimited coffee and espresso drinks, tea, juice and water was included in my reservation, so I would start my days at Brasserie Lutetia with a selection of fresh pastries and fruit along with a variety of cheeses, charcuterie, smoked salmon and cereals.
I tried a sumptuous waffle with Chantilly cream and berries one day, and various egg dishes with sides like avocado and crispy bacon or smoked salmon the others. A room service breakfast order arrived within 20 minutes still hot and beautifully laid out on a rolling table, which was collected within five minutes of my calling down.
Bathed in multicolored light from its painted-glass ceiling by artist Fabrice Hyber, Le Saint-Germain felt more like a chic library or salon, with comfortable seating vignettes and shelves with art pieces and books. The all-day menu here had some lighter options like avocado with quinoa and mango in a citrus dressing (26 euros, $29) as well as more substantial dishes from the brasserie menu, like grilled rib eye with potatoes (46 euros, $51). Afternoon tea service is available on weekends.
Across from Le Saint-Germain, Bar Josephine opens in the evenings and features live music Thursdays to Saturdays. The space is simply magnificent thanks to a dramatically lit mirrored bar and original frescoes covering its walls and vaulted ceiling depicting pastoral scenes and the grape harvest, which took artist Adrien Karbowsky 17,000 hours to restore. The music-inspired cocktail menu is impressive, too, and features signature drinks like the herbaceous Paris, Paris with Guillotine vodka, St-Germain liqueur, citrus and celery bitters and a dash of Champagne (26 euros, $29) and the heady but mellow Resistance with Bacardi rum, coconut oil, French toast essence, lapsang and licorice (26 euros, $29).
Finally, there is a cigar lounge called La Bastide with wood paneling and deep, tufted leather sofas, that has live DJs on Thursdays and a cocktail menu inspired by alternative music albums from the past several decades. It also hosts special exhibitions like a current one on French musician, actor and director Serge Gainsbourg. Unfortunately, I did not get the chance to visit ... but something for next time.
Amenities and service
Aside from its bars and restaurant, Hotel Lutetia's main amenities are focused on wellness and relaxation. Below street level, guests can visit the hotel's Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Spa. The facilities comprise a hair salon, men's and women's locker rooms and a large gym with Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, free weights and a yoga studio.
There's also a stunning 17-meter subterranean lap pool lined by loungers and with dramatic lighting effects to evoke a sense of tranquility. Next to it is an area with a steam room and a hammam.
The spa itself has six treatment rooms including a large couples one, where guests can enjoy signature experiences like the anti-aging and radiance facials with Swiss Cellcosmet products and beauty treatments with the hotel's custom line of U Beauty products.
Although Parisians tend to get a bad reputation for their treatment of tourists, the city's top hotels can be paragons of hospitality, and the Hotel Lutetia proves the rule. From the moment I arrived, it was as though everyone on staff knew my name and would greet me with a smile in the lobby or hallways. Each time I returned to the hotel after an outing, both the doormen and reception agents cheerfully welcomed me back with a sunny "Bonjour, monsieur Rosen!"
The wait staff at Brasserie Lutetia knew my coffee order from the second day onward and proactively offered to get me the same pastries as I'd selected from the buffet the day before. The bartenders at Bar Josephine were likewise courteous and genial, offering me tips on music venues and lesser-known museums around town.
When I asked the spa receptionists if I could take a look around the wellness facilities, I was given a detailed accompanied tour and encouraged to take any photos or videos I liked where other guests were not present.
To put it in French terms, the service was simply nonpareil, and was among the best I've experienced in Paris.
Out and about
Hotel Lutetia is removed from the city's more touristy areas, but still within easy distance to many sights and neighborhoods you might want to visit, either by public transport, car or walking.
There is a cute park just across Boulevard Raspail from the hotel, and the surrounding streets have plenty of restaurants, bars and cafes that the hotel's concierge will be happy to recommend, including the elegant bistro, Le Petit Lutetia, a few blocks to the west.
Boulevard Saint Germain, with its upscale boutiques and busy cafes, is just a five-minute walk away, and the Musee d'Orsay is just 15 minutes on foot, while you can walk to Les Invalides in about 20 minutes. You can also hop on the metro just across the street and zip to any of the city's other areas.
Of course, you should also visit Le Bon Marché itself, which is a five-minute walk west. The department store now comprises several buildings peddling everything from high-design fashions to housewares. There's even a gourmet food court that's the perfect spot to grab delicacies for an impromptu picnic by the Seine.
Accessibility
Although the hotel's main entrance on Boulevard Raspail has stairs, there is also a small elevator for wheelchair use, and once on the lobby level, you can get to the reception desks and the hotel's bars and restaurants without the use of an elevator. There are, however, elevators with chair-height buttons to get you both down to the spa (and a chairlift into its pool) and up to the guest accommodations.
Speaking of accommodations, there are five wheelchair-accessible guestrooms with features like roll-in showers, lowered sinks and mirrors and support handles by the toilets and in the showers. To ensure you are able to reserve one of these, contact the hotel directly.
Checking out
Since it originally opened in 1910, Hotel Lutetia has been one of Paris's most exclusive addresses. After a long, costly renovation and reflagging under the Set Collection, the hotel is looking as fresh and opulent as ever. The spectacular public areas, including its jaw-dropping underground marble pool, the excellent dining venues and elegant rooms and suites all contribute to its well-deserved "Palace" designation and make Hotel Lutetia one of the best hotels in Paris. Although nightly rates can be very expensive, if you're able to book through a program like the Capital One Premier Collection, the value-added benefits can make a stay here that much more memorable.
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